Above from top:
Falernia, De Martino, VSE, San Pedro, Tamaya, San Pedro, VSE
Below from top: Tabalí winery, El Molle petroglyph, VSE Inca carvings, Errazuriz old winery
Special Report | Chilean Wineries
Great expectations and boundless opportunities
Chile is a wine-producing country with seemingly endless potential. New plantings in previously unexplored territories are bringing new styles to market. Following her recent visit, Felicity Murray brings a series of reports starting with the wineries in the northern valleys
This 4,300km long by 177km wide country stretches down the west coast of South America from the Atachama desert in the north to the glacial regions of the south.
Traditionally, wine production has been in the flatlands of the Central Valley, where there is fertile soil, a Mediterranean climate and the grapes grow well and ripen easily. But in the last few years, as the wines from Chile have gained greater recognition for their quality and value for money in key export markets (see UK report), winemakers have been exploring the influence of different soils and climates and experimenting with new grape varieties. Hence the wine regions of Chile have been expanding and the number of vineyards in Chile has more than doubled in the last 20 years.
The quest to find for the ideal ‘terroir’ to produce ever higher quality wines from its traditionally-grown grape varieties (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Carmenère and Chardonnay), along with a move into cooler climes where new varieties for Chile such as Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah can be planted, has driven vineyard owners to invest in new and often previously uncultivated regions.
The search has taken them away from the flat and fertile central valley northwards into the semi-arid mountains, southwards into the wetter lake district, higher and higher up the slopes of the Andes to the east and into the hills near the sea to the west.
The beauty of the Chilean climate is its dependable, dry and temperate sunny weather, along with its constant fresh water supply from the snow-capped Andes. As rain is rare, securing a site with a suitable water source for vineyard irrigation is critical. But a big plus is the low risk of fungal or frost damage. There is also no phylloxera infestation in Chile, so there is no need for vines to be grafted onto American rootstocks. Shoots can be planted directly into the soil. And with few pests or diseases to worry about, chemical sprays and pesticides are generally unnecessary, making organic farming more achievable. Bringing new varieties into the country, however, is not so easy due to the country’s strictly enforced quarantine controls.
Report 1: Elqui Valley
Chile’s highest and most northern region at 30º latitude south is Elqui with its cool, clear starry nights and warm sunny days. The Elqui Valley has traditionally been dedicated to producing Moscatel grapes for the national spirit Pisco. However, the combination of rocky and alluvial soils, cool ocean breezes, warm days and cool nights, and a good water supply from the Puclaro reservoir, has begun to attract producersof fine wines to the area.
Below: a view of the Eqlui Valley from De Martino vineyards
Report 2: Limarí Valley
The Limarí Valley, 400km north of Chile’s capital Santiago and another traditional area for Pisco, runs east to west from the ocean to the mountains, offering almost as much diversity in terroir and climate as the north to south of Chile. Major players in the Chilean wine business started to invest in the region some 20 years ago and are today producing rich red and crisp white wines of amazing quality.
The Aconcagua Valley, 100km north of Santiago and overlooked by Mount Aconcagua, the highest peak in the Americas, is the last east-west transversal valley between the arid north and the fertile north-south Central Valley. Like Limarí, the Aconcagua Valley enjoys a stable Mediterranean climate with clear skies and a low risk of frost damage.
Below: the hillside and river valley vineyards of VSE
The latest news from Chile, as Michael Cox, UK director Wines of Chile has stated, is alarming, shocking, and concerning. Although no stranger to seismic activity, this latest massive earthquake has shaken but not broken Chile, he says.
The Drinks Report would like to join Michael in sending heartfelt sympathies to all Chileans – but especially to all the wonderful people I met on my recent visit – with best wishes for a speedy return to normal life.
The extent of the damage to Chile’s wine regions and winery infrastructure is as yet unknown, but there is significant damage in the southern wine areas closest to the epicentre, notably Bío Bío, Cauquenes, and other parts of Maule, and Curicó. Even wineries as far north as Colchagua have been affected, with structural damage, road collapses, and power and communication problems.